WHISPERING BALI

Neldy Jolo

 

I have wanted to visit Bali before it became known after the bombing. The month August just started and it as month of Ramadhan, the fasting month of the Muslim. I was fasting when departing boarding Air Asia flight. I was talking to me seat mate, an Indonesian who is working in Malaysia for seven years. More or less working in Malaysia is an experience of luxurious life for many Indonesians. I was respected for being departing from this country called Malaysia.

Temple in Bali. In this temple there is a river and a mountainous. I took on the way back to the city.

The time in Denpasar, Bali is one hour ahead of Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The airplane landed at around 8:55 in the evening. Upon landing and I followed many passengers to go out from the aircraft.  Many get to look for hotels, backpackers’ inn, cars and spas reservations’ ads right on the arrival launch.

 

I was crowded by the money changers while passing by the corridor going out. Taxi calls welcome me from the taxi drivers. If I am not considering any fact that I am just a traveller here, I might get irritated for saying the phrases many times: “aku belum mau ngikut taksi”. This means “I am not yet wanted to ride taxi.” The taxi drivers stopped when I said so but still a polite brat is coming to ask me until I just ignored without words. I am so sorry for this.

 

It was late at night I waited for my friend near 24-Hour convenience store known K Circle. The restaurant near here is closed on the midnight, which I paid 140 thousand Rupiah consuming half Ayam Betutu (Chicken Spicy), Tea Hangat (Hot Tea), Kopi Itam (Black Coffe). I befriended the staff here and listening to the romantic Indonesia love songs.

A toy along the way  down to the temple. I took this closely.

They are indeed kind to everyone. I was looking for outlet to charge my gadget; I need to find the direction of going places to visit and stay. My boss is coming tomorrow, so I will be working while travelling.

I also befriended the floor cleaner of the airport, telling me many stories about Bali and suggested many places that I could possibly visit. He advised me for cheap food outside airport. I must thank him for being so kind to an unknown stranger coming from where, he has no idea. I didn’t introduce myself as he didn’t bother himself to ask me. He may be thinking that I am just from another island in Indonesia.

I love being here. I slept at this comfortable-airport-couch for free and enjoyed the serenade of whispering Bali. A passionate end of my sleep here ended with in an unexpressed joy felt and embraces my being! As much I want to write about Surabaya and Jogjakarta, I can’t. I need to put in details about my transit and specific experiences.

Do not forget:

1.      To not to take taxi if you are in a light travel instead takes ojek (motor) to enjoy.

2.      If you are with friends take metered-taxi.

3.      To pay as domestic or local traveller for any places to visit.

4.      To walk at Kartika Plaza and Legian Road. “Street” is called “Gang” here.

5.      To walk at Pantai Kuta and etc.

SULU SAIL IN INDONESIA: “NOT A TOURIST BUT A TRAVELLER”

Neldy Jolo

Many wanted to visit Bali, as I wanted too. Travellers speak and write their experiences in their blogs and videos how exciting the views, beaches and other ruins and remnants of the ancient belief of Hinduism and how affordable the food are.

Tourists are different than travellers, they speak how they spent their money eating at any fast food and drinking at any expensive coffee shops and shopping for branded garments. Different stories can be read about travellers and tourists. Help me to find the differences between the two, if you have the idea.

When I searched in the internet, the very popular food there is the Ayam Betutu Khas Gilimanuk. Do not ask me about the cost just prepare your thousands. The most popular that people used to visit here are Monkey Park, Gunung Kawi (Similar to Langkawi in name). I cannot speak much about it until to see it personally.

Forget about Bali; let’s see what is found in the Surabaya. By just reading something about Surabaya in many blogs, it is known to be the second largest city in Indonesia, the second capital after Jakarta. My friend told that they wanted to visit Mount Bromo.

It is really interesting to mountaineering but I can no longer do it for it now as I used to do it during college days, this is especially knap-sacking: putting many things inside the bag. My back cannot resist. So no backpacking but single-side-shoulder packing as put my bag only in left or right shoulder. I am also familiar about Surabaya in a name, labelled in any cigarettes coming from this city. Also found here is one of the Wali Songo, Sunan Ampel said to be near Kampung Arab.

I supposed is going to visit Malang and Solo, but the time is not cooperating. I only encounter the name Solo when I was researching about Sulu. Solo and Sulu seems similar. I prepare to visit Jogjakarta as I have known it many years ago from my Indonesian friend I met in Thailand in 2007. He was studying in UGM, Universitas Gadjah Mada. Gadjah Mada was the one that pledged to unite the “Malay Archipelago” he called “Nusantara” in his Sumpah Palapa (Spices Oath).

I searched in the www.kereta-api.co.id about the train schedule, from Jogja to Solo and Malang. From Jogja to Solo is only around more than an hour. For Malang it is around two hours. But I decided to stay in Jogja to visit the UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Candi Borobudur and Candi Prambanan. I just happened to read it sometime in high school, now is in my sight. I cannot describe in one word how fascinating the sites are. The architectures are hard to believe to be like that if not the power of Allah granted to human mind and psychology to create such. The measurement seems accurate. The technology seems modern.

Near Jalan Purwodiningratan in Jogjakarta, the tricycles known as Becak are going back and forth, also the horse-carriage called Andung. These traditional transportation modes are best to ride to mutar- mutar or keliling keliling, for short roaming around the city. Bicycle for rent is also available, but I do not know the price. It is known as Sepeda.

Tricycle in Jolo, Sulu is similar to this one, there was also Caleza, the horse-carriage transportation in Jolo back in the time of Spanish living in the quarter of smallest Walled City.  This Walled City in Jolo is qualified to become one of the UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Wait for my coming post for my travel in Sulu Archipelago few months ago: Bongao, Siasi, Jolo and Zamboanga. My personal reminder is, “please do not be a tourist but a traveller”. If you have your own definition, be it for I am not to change your perspective. It just a matter of how I perceived the matter.

Let’s stop talking senseless here; I have the tips to those who wanted to travel light and hassle-free as knapsacker and backpacker. I do not know if you find this useful. My tip as traveller for one week in different places and sites is to prepare:

1.  1 Knapsack (Medium)

2.  1 Pants  

3.  1 Short pants

4.  3 Shirts

5.  1 Sarung for prayer

6.  Toiletries not cosmetics

7. Extra plastic bags (preparation for anything you got in the travel)

8. Change your currency prior to your travel to country’s destination (better keep dinar and dirham).

Next time if you want to join me prepares your rope and stick, I will ask you to please “Welcome Aboard” to prepare the Sulu Sail with the Sulu Pirate as not a tourist but a traveller and a sailor. To cut the story short: Indonesians are genuinely and generally polite and hospitable. And be reminded that every place in the world, the vendors are full of perseverance to let you buy their products, as in Indonesian vendors do, in every tourist sites.

Of course one of the best to support is the street artists in Malioboro Street who sing, play musical instruments and draw your portrait while eating for 20mins in Rp.50K.  Most of all do book your airfare tickets in advance for cheap prices.  Please let me know what other travel tips you wanted to know.

Oh ya before I forgot, Indonesia was created from Latin and Greek word “Indus and Nesos” means “Island” which became as Indian Archipelago. This is the effect of colonialism in Nusantara that divides the island into a state base country that need to be divided by document as human identification.

In the Caliphate time, there is no such state and stateless and poverty. Colonialism created poverty through banking system. The banker became rich, while the bank depositors became poor. Their real money, gold and silver changed into fiat money, the paper money which the value is only on its self as paper. Beyond that there is none.

I would like to remember that people in Likusantara (Nusantara) are relatives that never met in their lives and whenever met there is no single reason for them not to love to each other and to strengthen the power of neighborhood. They shared culture, arts, history and heritage. It is always good to be having freedom in travelling. There are more to come with Kurampings.

PS:

Thank you to Kah Diddings and The Sulu Gypsy for being in Jogja. 

TWO TAUSUG LEGENDS: “JULFEKAR IN THE BRUSH OF RAMEETA”!

Neldy Jolo

RAMEETA: THE INTERNATIONAL TAUSUG UKKILIST

By Nelson Dino

Saloma Bistro, Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, 27 March 2012.

RAMEETA also known as Rameer Tawasil is a multi-awarded Tausug visual artist and one of the most widely recognized young Muslim artist in both local and international art scenes. He is an offspring of the prominent Tawasil-Caluang clans of the ancient Sulu nobility. Rameeta means “pleasing” and “loved” in an Indian language. In Spanish it means twig, spray, sprig, branch, bough, limb, leaf and line which suit him to be romantically named as such. This is based from his character as painter and his rendition to his paintings.

He is best known for using bright, strong and bold colors in his paintings. The basic form and foundation of his art is “ukkil”, brought him to be tagged as the Tausug Ukkilist. Ukkil or Ukkilism is a form of carving done by the Tausug even before the Spaniard introduced western painting to the Philippines and Sulu Archipelago.


His first solo entitled “Tawasil” was a sell out and was held in 2003 at The Garden Orchid Hotel, Zamboanga City. Last November 2010, Rameeta went to European Art Exhibition Tours “Tanaw Mindanaw’’ at BrenART International Art Gallery. This is the most prestigious and largest one level Art gallery, at the heart and center and Capital State of the European Union, Brussels, Belgium. He was with Philippine National Artist Abdulmari Imao and on 27 November 2010 the exhibition was open at Agueli Galleri in Stockholm, Sweden. In 2011, he was one of the 6-men team official delegation Beijing and Shandung, China for a mural painting of the history of Sulu Sultan Paduka Batara of 1417 and contributed to the Architectural façade of the on-going renovation and development of the 7 billion pesos of Sultan Paduka Batara’s Shrine. 


Rameeta, awarded a “Peace Citation Award” in 2006 by Peace Advocates Zamboanga for his rendition of the “Peace Dove” logo which has become a peace campaign symbol in the Philippines and abroad and has been widely used and included in the international symbol of birds. As an advocate of peace and environment, Rameeta conducts art workshops in recycled and environmental art, and organizes art shows and directs musical concerts for peace and environment. On 29 November 2010, Rameeta unveiled his 2^nd Public Peace Monumental Sculpture commissioned by Peace Advocates Zamboanga or PAZ. His first sculptor “SALAM” was the marker for world-known Bud Dahu Massacre in 2006.


His works have been featured in Philippine and international publications, including “Space and Identity” published by Asian Center, University of the Philippines, the National Commission for Culture and the Arts Publication. The “Voices of Islam in Southeast Asian Studies”, Singapore, National leading Newspapers, National Magazines and the black book “Maas Nur Misuari” written by Nelson Dino Sulu to name a few.

“JULFEKAR IN THE BRUSH OF RAMEETA”

This exhibition, “Julfekar in the Brush of Rameeta” is an effort started by Julfekar to collaborate for his album “Bukan Sekadar Julfekar or Not Just Julfekar” with one of the famous international painters from the Philippines of a Tausug descent known to be in his Ukkilism, Ukkilist Rameeta aka Rameer Tawasil. Upon engaging himself with the several famous artists of Malaysia and had composed thousands of songs, Julfekar have been appreciating the artist from countries of neighbors like, Indonesia, Brunei, Timor Leste and right now he is doing it in the Philippines.

Mr. Julfekar Ahmad Shah, Managing Director of the MillenniumArt Sdn Bhd and Datuk Haji Mohd Fauzi Zakaria leading the Dream Music Sdn. Bhd have been actively involved in the production of songs and albums for famous artists in Malaysia. Dream Music Sdn Bhd, is a subsidiary of Dream Chorus Sdn Bhd, a recording company that focused on marketing music in a digital form, especially caller ringtones, while MillenniumArt Sdn Bhd has been directly engaged with Malaysia artists as well as artist management. These companies also serve as a distributor of the artists’ album on line, handling promotional activities through print and electronic media, entertainment and event management.


Julfekar as an internationally famous song produ-composer is a Malaysian and his ancestors are originated from the Sulu Archipelago, hence Tausug or known as Suluk in Sabah, Malaysia. To widen the milestone of friendship and collaborative efforts with the neighbours, Julfekar took a wise step to take few lady singers and one band from the Philippines to record songs in Malaysia. One of those singers is Nikki Bacolod and other singers are Grendel, Haizel, Bryan Termulo and Banda Roosevelt (Frio). Every song is composed by Julfekar himself. The album would be distributed in Malaysia, Philippines, Indonesia, Singapore, Brunei, Timor Leste and the Philippines itself.


Julfekar is not only engage with music and painting but other artistic endeavor like culinary art. Julfekar is also investing himself into culinary art that soon to be published the book edited by Nelson Dino and written by Sharif Aliazer Sharif Abdurajim entitled, “Kakaun Sug: Beyond Recipes, Traditional Tausug Food Julfekar Loves To Cook.”


This album and exhibition album is the mileage of bringing up the close ties between these two-country neighbors, Malaysia and the Philippines. This will strengthen the spirit of taking courage and working together for the mutual benefits of each country. This music and painting engagement is somehow would help the artists, as well as the companies to have the choice in making a change in the international ground. 


An excerpt from the soon-publish autobiography “Not Just Julfekar” written by Nelson Dino where the title of the album was taken and portrayed him as such: “The authenticity of his craft is derived from the string of his guitar as alive as the message of the lyrics serenading and rendering behind the ingredients of his music. His lovable music yet romantic lyrics are the fusion of modern and ancient beat of harmonic sound to say the least.”

LANGKAWI: “AN EAGLE FLIGHT BUT NOT FLYING”

Neldy Jolo

Langkawi in Bahasa Sug (Sulu Language) means "go step over or go step off". It is from the root word langka and langkaw meaning to step. Langka and Langkaw also means an act of a child who is spoiled or demanding to the parents.

The word “Langkawi” is a phrase in Tausug “asking someone to go step over a thing”. In the “dataran lang” - eagle park found a “helang terbang tidak melayang” – an eagle flight but not flying. That’s a nice thing first to visit.

"an eagle flight but not flying".
This spot could see afar from the sea.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Indeed a very fascinating place similar to the different islands found in Sulu archipelago. I hope to share more stories about it soon in my incoming memoir in Bahasa Sug, entitled Layag Sug. And I hope to finish it very soon. Insha Allah.

The legend of Langkawi Island of the State of Kedah in Malaysia was from the two words: Lang (helang or eagle) Kawi (brown), meaning brown eagle.

DjSuria Su and Gier Black at Langkawi fm.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

DjSuria Su, the wife of my Tausug friend Gier Black is the native here told me about Lang as Eagle and Kawi as Brown and Kawi Stone. We shall find other interpretations of it. DjSuria Su is working as DJ in the Radio Malaysia Langkawi fm. She who serenades people with her melodious voice on air, indeed a subsequent visit to Langkawi is a must.

But to interpret the character of the eagle that is flying is to step over or flying over the sky is the character of the word “Langkawi” in Bahasa Sug.

Sort like, Langkawi na in dan yan – go step over the street or kiyalangkawan sin manul manuk in langit – the bird has flown over the sky.

One of the lamps at Kampung Tok Senik Resort.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

A spot where people fish.
Photo:Neldy Jolo

Typical Kampung House in Langkawi.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Langkawi has different legendary story, like beautiful lady Mahsuri daughter of Pandak Mayah, one that was sentence to death charged of adultery who laid a curse on the island that it will remain in chaos for seven generations.

One of the houses inside the compound of Makam Mahsuri.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Vicinity of Makam Mahsuri
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Another story is of rice burning in Padang Mat Sirat, who directed the villagers to burn that rice they have than to give it to the Siamese who invaded Langkawi in 18^th century. And right now it is still known as beras terbakar or burnt rice for tourist attraction.

Traditional house near Beras Terbakar.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The Burnt Rice
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The location where rice was burned.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The cenang beach with its splendid sands and beautiful sunset overlooking the seaside, with its rays touches the sea produces stunning silhouette. Cenang Beach Street is full with colourful souvenir items.

Sunset by the beach of Cenang.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Langkawi Permata Kedah
(Langkawi Jewel of Kedah).
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The visit was never planned after Gier Black called me to accompany him going back home. I did not say no, since I have been planning to visit the island few years back, as I usually seen it advertise in the Malaysia television and have read some information about it on the internet.

Lovely couple that hosted the stay,
Gier Black and DjSuria Su.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The Gateway to the city. 
The Sultan of Kedah Welcomes the visitors.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Serenity of the beach and ambience of this urban-island city is fascinating. Hope to visit to place soon. Thank to DjSuria Su and Gier Black and family for their hospitality. Do not forget to visit Melor Cafe at Kedawang to eat their delicious Nasi Goreng Sambal Telur.