everybody is welcome...

LANGKAWI: “AN EAGLE FLIGHT BUT NOT FLYING”

2012-02-12T01:03:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

Langkawi in Bahasa Sug (Sulu Language) means "go step over or go step off". It is from the root word langka and langkaw meaning to step. Langka and Langkaw also means an act of a child who is spoiled or demanding to the parents.

The word “Langkawi” is a phrase in Tausug “asking someone to go step over a thing”. In the “dataran lang” - eagle park found a “helang terbang tidak melayang” – an eagle flight but not flying. That’s a nice thing first to visit.

"an eagle flight but not flying".
This spot could see afar from the sea.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Indeed a very fascinating place similar to the different islands found in Sulu archipelago. I hope to share more stories about it soon in my incoming memoir in Bahasa Sug, entitled Layag Sug. And I hope to finish it very soon. Insha Allah.

The legend of Langkawi Island of the State of Kedah in Malaysia was from the two words: Lang (helang or eagle) Kawi (brown), meaning brown eagle.

DjSuria Su and Gier Black at Langkawi fm.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

DjSuria Su, the wife of my Tausug friend Gier Black is the native here told me about Lang as Eagle and Kawi as Brown and Kawi Stone. We shall find other interpretations of it. DjSuria Su is working as DJ in the Radio Malaysia Langkawi fm. She who serenades people with her melodious voice on air, indeed a subsequent visit to Langkawi is a must.

But to interpret the character of the eagle that is flying is to step over or flying over the sky is the character of the word “Langkawi” in Bahasa Sug.

Sort like, Langkawi na in dan yan – go step over the street or kiyalangkawan sin manul manuk in langit – the bird has flown over the sky.

One of the lamps at Kampung Tok Senik Resort.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

A spot where people fish.
Photo:Neldy Jolo

Typical Kampung House in Langkawi.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Langkawi has different legendary story, like beautiful lady Mahsuri daughter of Pandak Mayah, one that was sentence to death charged of adultery who laid a curse on the island that it will remain in chaos for seven generations.

One of the houses inside the compound of Makam Mahsuri.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Vicinity of Makam Mahsuri
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Another story is of rice burning in Padang Mat Sirat, who directed the villagers to burn that rice they have than to give it to the Siamese who invaded Langkawi in 18^th century. And right now it is still known as beras terbakar or burnt rice for tourist attraction.

Traditional house near Beras Terbakar.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The Burnt Rice
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The location where rice was burned.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The cenang beach with its splendid sands and beautiful sunset overlooking the seaside, with its rays touches the sea produces stunning silhouette. Cenang Beach Street is full with colourful souvenir items.

Sunset by the beach of Cenang.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Langkawi Permata Kedah
(Langkawi Jewel of Kedah).
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The visit was never planned after Gier Black called me to accompany him going back home. I did not say no, since I have been planning to visit the island few years back, as I usually seen it advertise in the Malaysia television and have read some information about it on the internet.

Lovely couple that hosted the stay,
Gier Black and DjSuria Su.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

The Gateway to the city.
The Sultan of Kedah Welcomes the visitors.
Photo: Neldy Jolo

Serenity of the beach and ambience of this urban-island city is fascinating. Hope to visit to place soon. Thank to DjSuria Su and Gier Black and family for their hospitality. Do not forget to visit Melor Cafe at Kedawang to eat their delicious Nasi Goreng Sambal Telur.

TAUSUG IS KAHAWARISTA!

2011-11-18T08:13:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

In the cosmopolitan Jolo, people raised with the culture of coffee break. Many coffee shops in Jolo serve coffee even in a half glass. It is for a person who doesn’t want to drink much or having no enough budgets. To order just say “tunga basu kahawa hadja in kaku’” (mine just a half-glass of coffee).

Kahawa is believed to from Arabic Qahwah and English for Coffee. Kahawa is known to be of good for its energizing effect. Coffee is often consumed alongside breakfast at the Tausug home and workplace and even in the farm. It is often served at the end of a meal, normally with a dessert and at times with an after dinner.

What the people can see in the town of Jolo that of many are only two types of establishments: the coffee shops and pawnshops. Does it mean that Tausug pawns their gold just to buy and to drink coffee? Interesting indeed!

Ryszard Kapuscinski even writes about the coffee vendor that drinking coffee in the morning is an age-old ritual in Zanzibar:

“The drinking of morning coffee is an age-old ritual here, with which -- along with prayers -- Muslims begin their day. The bell of the coffee seller, who each day at dawn walks up and down the streets of his district, is their traditional alarm clock. They jump up and wait in front of their houses, until the man bearing the fresh, strong, aromatic brew appears. The morning's first cup is an occasion of greetings and salutations, of mutual assurances that the night passed happily, and expressions of faith that this promises to be - Allah willing - a good day.”

In the medical study says coffee drinking will cause “nervousness” but in the Tausug society, the people feel “nervous” if they cannot drink coffee in a day. Tausug love to drink and serve coffee every day, indeed Tausug is Kahawarista!

TIBAW PA TAM-AWAN VILLAGE

2011-10-28T02:40:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo

Reminiscing the time when I was roaming to visit beautiful places in the north of Sulu Archipelago. I went to Baguio City on 11^th November 2006 and posted in the blog on the 13^th- the first blog I ever made – the y-i-lead-diwa. This was my first visit. It is maybe hard for me to visit the place again. Read my short story about the Tam-Awan Village. Here I reposted for us:

I was enchanted with the artistry of Tam-Awan Village. Tam-Awan (Tandawan in Tausug – Bahasa Sug) Village can be located at north-western part of Baguio City - the summer capital of the Philippines. Ride taxi for easy access to reach the village. Found in there are the Igorot huts that challenged me to have my own in my province (country) - Sulu.

I was guided by someone visiting the village. She brought me to the village where I found an abode of peace that could relax my bad emotions for the long day of work in the office.

Trip to the village is just like making new home in my life. I happened to lodge into one of the huts - the Dukligan or fertility hut. Tam-Awan Village is the home for artists. I was rewarded with the panoramic view seen from the village. It was a wonderful experience.

The huts were brought from the different villages of Ifugao and reconstructed for preservation and lodging by not using nails and hardware. The simplicity of the huts is where its beauty found. If you happen to visit the village, you can consider yourself as one of the wonderful persons in the world.

The art works are exotic and beautiful. The work of one artist I really like is the painting, which you think is just a simple drawing of the rice terraces. If you are not keen you cannot discover what are being drawn and sketched inside the painting, it is actually a sleeping woman.

While enjoying the breeze of the wind, the artists are offering a portrait sketch as a souvenir but you have to donate some amount you want. Unfortunately, I did not able to ask them to sketch me. So sad baby!

Please visit it with yourself to discover one of the wonderful things in the Philippines that you cannot forget in your life. You won’t regret baby! Promise!

Don’t forget to bring thick jacket and hiking shoes and of course extra MONEY because the artistic thing might seduce you there. See you when you get there!

PAPAR: AN OPEN LAND

2011-01-30T20:10:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

We arrived at Papar old town around 10am with our relatives to meet our cousin here on Saturday (29 Jan) and slept for a night. I was enchanted with the serenading views of this urbanized old town.

Papar was named after the Bruneian word for flat or open land. It was written in the map for Sulu as Papal District. Flat or open area is known as “Papad” in Bahasa Sug.

Papar was said to be administered by certain Sulu Chief, Datu Amirbahar until 1877. It was during the leased to Dent-Overbeck represented by the Sulu Sultan.

We started the journey from Sandakan at 9:30Am on the second trip of the bus bound for Kota Kinabalu. It was 27 January, not a very significant date for the day but very important date for me to arrived Kota Kinabalu because I was excited to see my cousin for about 18 years not meeting him.

Upon our arrival from Sandakan to KK terminal, I heard a young Tausug working there to campaign inbound and outbound passengers within Sabah and as far as Labuan and Brunei speaking his “understandable English” to Caucasian tourists. He said, “You want bus, for two ringgit only?”

These tourists are still meandering heads around to look for anyone to talk with. I tried to talk to them and told them the direction to take the mini bus to the KK city center. They left with face smiling for a cheap bus mini that is found across the road in Inanam Bus Terminal. This young Tausug said here, “Everything for everyone”.

On the 28^th I went to the city center of KK. I was in Wisma Merdeka looking for a book store that had been transferred to the other side of the mall. I bought books, the “Three Came Home” by Agnes N. Keith and “Datu Paduka Mat Salleh, Hero of Sabah” by Sabah National Archive.

While talking with the kind sales people here I was choosing other books to buy. I got “Sabah: Under the Rising Sun Government” by Stephen R. Evans and "Kinabalu Guerillas" by Maxwell Hall. I chatted with Nizam, Joan and Aza for a long while. We talked about the relationship between ethnics in Sabah as having their harmony to each other. No distance sets them apart.

They are all having Sulus or Tausug blood. I related to them how we call ourselves and how foreigners called ourselves. I left them to sale the book in the store. If I will stay longer their sales might get disturbed and no commission earned – if there is any.

Many had changed in the city center of Kota Kinabalu. I almost forgot where the Wisma Merdeka was located. I found first the KK Mall while looking for it.

I took city bus to get back to vicinity of 1 Borneo and along Alamesra Village where I lodged. I decided to join to Papar. Before riding the van we drop for a while in the fruits stand. There are many different fruits here, such as Mangga, Wanni, Watermelon and many others. Along the way to Papar, there a town called Petagas where the Petagas Cemetery found. Here are buried many personalities, including one of the Pangirans of Brunei and one Sultan?

Putatan is also along the way. While infrastructural development being alive, the ancient-looking view of the town are still intact that helps me to internalise the essence of the written stories about how Sulus administered this land before under Sultanate of Sulu.

History will repeat itself but people here can never wanted and desire to repeat the history experienced in this land – be it negative or positive influence gained by the Sulus here before, while and after the leased in 22 Jan 1878. Despite of that people here are living in harmony. There is a maximum tolerance to any believers of their faith.

Only there are some who doesn’t understand history that sometimes ignited the conflict between ethnics – separated case and unusual anyway. I have been going back in fort in this highway to Papar to go to Menumbok for a trip to Brunei drop by Labaun few years later. The international airport stunning here is quite busy for flights arrival and departures.

Papar is a best place to visit. The Papar Old Masjid is still standing here. There are many food stall that served halal. There are many Sulus here. I was thinking that I cannot found one except my cousin here but I was wrong. There are also Tausug Citizens here. The Tausug vendors are also present.

I was touched with this Tausug who was detained for lack of legal document staying in Sabah. He was caned two years ago. Trace of the rattan still intact in his butt. He related the story of his hardship in working to help his mother to continue living:

“I was born in Semporna but I never got any legal document. When our father died I was the one helping my mother to support my siblings. I was caned for having no Malaysian legal document. I was deported to Zamboanga City, the place I am very foreign to, though our ancestors were here before. As far as I could remember, I never step off this land since my birth in Semporna. If I just know that life could be like this hard in this land of harmonious people, I would have just ask God to let me stay in the womb of my mother and never born. But as long as I still firmly believed with “Qada’ and Qadar” I will stay calm and live life to continue living. I have to accept I am not welcome here, though I was born in Semporna. Whenever in the future our land of origin, the Sulu Archipelago will get back to its stability, I will be there to continue my life. I need to rest the interesting life of ours as oppressed people living in the develop state. Life must go on as saying goes.”

“We have to follow the law, just hold on to the pain. Keep the faith and think Allah” the man that whispered him while going to be hit by caned.

I will leave this “story chapter” as I could not hold on to my emotion to overflow. This gave me the idea that people should strive hard to get up and work for their own – most of all get legal document and legal country as well as nationality.

I got back to KK after a night in Papar and will get back to Sandakan soon. Strong flood and landslides hit Sandakan right now. I am writing overlooking 1 Borneo Mall (noon time).

A TRIP TO TAWAU!

2011-01-12T22:02:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

Excitement awake me when Khalifah Suluk and Bendahara Suluk informed us there is a certain seminar about Sulu people, Sulug or Suluk; the Tausug in Tawau.

The seminar is entitled as “Seminar Memartabatkan Kebudayaan, Kesenian dan Warisan Suluk”

Derivation of the name Tawau is not clear. This is one of the excitements that hit my senses. Datu Yusuf Bin Datu Ibrahim said that the time British arrived to Tawau; it has been called as such. Bendahara Suluk said it is from the Tidung word meaning a “place of meeting”.

There is also an idea that Tawau was derived from the Bugis tongue that could mean “that is mine”. But according to Khalifah Suluk, it was from the Arabic Character “Ta” and “Wau” that resembles Tawau. From the Tausug word it is “Tau” and “Auh” or “Auh Tau” means “Oh People” – Tawau.

The travel took us around 4 and half hours from Sandakan. We travelled along Lahad Datu and Semporna upon reaching Tawau old town.

We roamed around the town of Tawau to look for Tawau Hotel that is said to be existed since 1980’s. I was enchanted with the beauty of the old building found in Tawau.

We saw the importance of the solidarity among people here in Tawau. Sulu people lives here are united to move forward to put the honor of the Suluk in a right place.

I would tell many things later. The session is starting now. The sound of Kulintang is already serenading the hall. See you later!

NEW YEAR: MY NEW WISH AND RENEWAL OF HOPE!

2010-12-31T08:18:00.001-08:00

Neldy

Another stage of challenges in life will be coming. At exactly 12:00MN, the year 2011 will be starting. The year will be opened by these numbers 010111. It was just few days ago since the first month of Hijra, the Muharram, the first month of Gregorian calendar, January is here. The calendar was first called Julian calendar, named after Roman leader Julius Caesar and changed to Gregorian calendar after Pope Gregory.

The Islamic Calendar was instituted during the time of second Caliph of Islam, Hazrat Umar Ibn Khattab, when he said, “the Hijra has separated the truth from falsehood, therefore, let it become the epoch of the era”. But the calendar was named after the emigration of Nabi Muhammad (s.a.w) in the year 622 A.D from Makkah to Madina. This emigration marks the beginning of Hijrah.

Every start of the year would be the beginning of every wish and renewal of hope by people of the world. People may wish to keep the bad fate away and let the good fate coming.

I wish and hope to myself for a good health and long lives. I wish and hope to the Tausug’s cause for complete independence of their homeland, Sulu Sultaniyah Darul Islam would be realized soon.

I wish and hope that international community will have the open eyes, mind and heart to keep track of the Sulu Sultaniyah’s cause for complete freedom as Kosovo and Palestine.

I wish and hope that Sulu Sultaniyah will follow the way of Kosovo and Palestine as new Free State and become the member of the family of free people; free from Riba, free from ignorance, free from the clutches of colonial mentality, free from arrogance and free from downgrading others.

I wish and hope that everything that I wanted to have in my remaining lives extended by Allah will be realized. I wish and hope that the novel I was starting to write will be finish soon.

I wish and hope I could write more books about Sulu archipelago and Tausug. I wish and hope I could finish the script for our first film project soon.

I wish and hope that we could pursue our dream to retrace the trace of the coming of Islam to Sulu Archipelago and write its story. I wish and hope that Allah guides me always to the right way and would increases my obedience to HIM.

I wish and hope a happy Amun Jadid and happy New Year to All!

SICKNESS MEANS TO REST: A PLEASANT VISIT TO JOLO

2010-12-11T20:32:00.000-08:00

Neldy

Azan or Bang, a call to prayer heard from Masjid Sultan Shariful Hashim near Jolo Port. I arrived with Murshed Salam, a brother from Bangladesh, boarded M/V Jocelyn. We chatted silently about the nightmares in Jolo being experience by the Tausug and Tausug citizenship campaign to ask the Philippines to get out from Sulu territory.

Calmness of the Sea in Sulu Archipelago. Photo: Neldy

I told him to keep his voice slow. I was afraid of something not good to happen. A risk to bring foreigner to Jolo was been daily story of the people outside Jolo, Sulu. But ‘to see is to believe’ is applied here. Alhamdulillah nothing happened unnecessary.

I don’t think that Tausug is too insane and bad enough to treat their visitor with unpleasant welcome. The Tausug Peace Keepers fetched us in the port. Before went to Buansa, we passed went to the Masjid near this port. Many people were looking at us speaking foreign language. Maybe they are thinking that my companion was a foreigner. Yes he is foreigner in the place but not foreigner in faith and belief - Islam.

I contained the pain since arriving at Clark Airbase, Pampanga from Kota Kinabalu, Sabah in August. I stayed around four days in Manila. Even though in pain, I got some time to visit my relatives here.

I got contacted Rameeta (Rameer Tawasil), A Tausug renowned artist and a great ‘ukkilism-genre’ painter. He came to Manila to discuss about their exhibit in Europe. It happened that he is also in Manila. So we took time to meet in Robinsons Galleria for a dinner. I decided to come along with him to Zamboanga so I have a companion. He booked ticket for us for August 29 Manila-Zamboanga bound Flight.

While Brother Mushed Salam was with the Tausug Peace Keepers roaming around Jolo, I was just staying in the house to feel the pain. Brother Murshed brought interesting stories and observations about Jolo, Sulu and the Tausug.

They went to the beaches and the woods in Jolo. The Igasan white beach, rural area in Buansa. Only in the seaside of Buansa I joined them, near Subah Datu beach overlooking Bangas Island, where beautiful beach is also found.

We get to Zamboanga after a two days and brother Murshed went home. He did not forget to remind me to pray to Allah. He was able to meet Sharif Yazir Rajim, a Tausug artivist and journalist and talk something about Tausug and Islam and pray together. I and Yaz together went back to Jolo (this would be the next in line story).

I have been suffering with pleasant backache. I considered this pleasant because I believe this is blessing from God. And I took the advice of many friends, especially Yaz, Asree, Hasan, Abang Samad, Cikgu Hatta and Bining. If I got some illness that would mean I am loved by God and let me to lessen my sins and ask forgiveness from Him.

Most of all to let me to remember Allah always – no forget and skip of prayer. This is still month of Ramadan. Indeed sickness is God meant for me to rest, Alhadulillah!

TRIP TO THE GARDEN CITY

2010-12-11T05:16:00.000-08:00

Neldy

It is my wanders to Borneo that invited me to visit the Garden City back again transiting to Peninsular Malaysia at Johor Baharu. I off to Kota Kinabalu from Sandakan at 7PM, it arrived around 1:30AM to Kota Kinabalu terminal. I slept here waiting for the daylight to come. I have to secure some funds. I ate Roti Kosong, an affordable food. Taxi Cab is quite bad having its higher price to take me to One Borneo Mall.

the merlion. i am thirsty...

At around 1:30AM I headed to Airport Terminal 2. This is for the lowest-cost airlines terminal. Take bus to here at a lower cost of 1RM. It is in the bus terminal near Plaza Wawasan, Kota Kinabalu.

The aircraft arrived to Changi Airport, Singapore at Terminal 1. I saw a sign going to the Terminal 3. Train to the city centre located here. I purchased train ticket for Raffles Place Terminal from Changi Airport.

I was assisted and instructed by the in charge in the ticket machine. She gave a directional map to every train to take. She’s very kind. She changed the currency I have into Singapore dollar. The fare is 3 and 7 cents dollar – with a 1SD deposit, people could retrieve after, in any train station to stop.

This is the LRT tiket and the Map.

The enchanting beauty of the city, reminded me to remember the time when Sulu Sultan Jamalul Kiram II was honored by 18-gun salute here. This was the time when Sulu Sultanate and Singapore have the political and economic ties during 17^th – 20^th century. Sulu people indeed wish to reopen the link.

While roaming around the city as budget-tourist, I was reminded with the story of one Tausug fighter in Jolo. He said, “the secret of the Tausug in war if they got continues fire from the enemy have only two words that is ‘take and cover’ – take cover. It gave an idea to take pictures around here while walking in the streets of Singapore. I take but did not cover.

Environmental Conservation effort made by Singapore. Fantastic idea.

I don’t know if this related to the adage of mountaineers when I was joining them during university days, “take nothing but time, kill nothing but pictures, leave nothing but footprints and leave no trace”. This seems to be true because I cannot trace my footprints and my foot do not print in walkway because of the sanitized street. No trace of soiled “shoeprints” could be seen.

Anyway what is important to me here, I didn’t see any thrash in the street. I wonder how people of Singapore maintain this discipline. How fortunate Singapore people are.

Let me finish stop here. I have to walk again for sight-seeing. Many tourists said that whoever visited Singapore and failed to go to the Merlion, he must not have visited the city. The sprinkling water from the mouth of the Merlion proves this city-state as the bustling Garden City of Southeast Asia. I will be in Johor, Malaysia later tonight. Happy Walking to me! Sorry for late posting, this was in February 2010!

DESTINY IS A FATE REALLY!

2010-06-07T17:26:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo

My flight to Bandar Seri Begawan, Brunei was at 1:10PM from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. The flight was a bit late, from 1:10PM became 1:40PM – supposedly arrive to Brunei at 3:30PM – it arrived 3:48. I queued for immigration check. I was actually in transit passenger to Kota Kinabalu for the 4:50PM flight. I rushed to the check in counter.

Masjid Sultan Omar Saifuddin, Brunie Darussalam. Photo: Neldy

I was told “it’s already closed”. I asked to whom I could talk with. She directed me to ticketing office. I then talked to the assigned staff here with a big “breathing scene” because I was running through the stairs to arrive here. In my mind I shall be calling this staff as “Ms. Fa-Na”, Bruneian.

She asked me to wait. She was attending the customer. I waited for a few-more minutes. I was sad that she never solve my problem when I thought that she could when she said “please wait for a while, I will just finish this”.

She told me that “you are late; the counter will be closed 45 minutes before departure”. I replied, “it’s the aircraft not me, what can you do for this – does any alternatives that you can help me to solve this. No humanitarian considerations? I have no enough funds.”

Brunie Prince Symbol. Photo: Neldy

“I can’t do anything, the least I can help you is to let you buy for new ticket and this is our system. Your ticket is forfeited, I wanted to help but I can’t” she stressed with kindness. She even spoke in Malay, more or less if I was not mistaken to understand, “so sad for him that he has no enough money”.

I was expecting though, even their system is already like that, it doesn’t really mean they can never help people in times of crisis or problems – after all I was their passenger, the loyalty is for their airline only. All of my trips in Southeast Asia, Air Asia would my first choice. I just can’t understand why they cannot help – for that simple problem. The control is in them.

Near Bus terminal and Brunie Hotel, Banda Seri Begawan, BD. Photo: Neldy

In this episode of time that happened to my life in 5 June 2010, nobody could be blamed. I can’t blamed Air Asia, I can’t blamed the staff, I can’t blame time and most I can’t even blame God for this is the destiny of life – and it’s a fate that was already programmed by God to happen within this point in time! InshaAllah, tomorrow I would be taking ferry to Labuan, for I can no longer afford to buy another airfare for Kota Kinabalu. My firm belief is to Allah. I leave my life to him. He will protect me from every bit and beat of seconds, every minutes of instance and every hour of times.

Ya Allah forgive those people who hated people, who cheated people, who denied the rights of people as human. Praying that in Sulu this kind of incident could be solved. Human is human – should not be totally following the system which human controls – if human controls the system there should be immediate solutions. Allahu Akbar! Allahu Akbar! Allahu Akbar! Amin Ya Rabbal Alamin!

VISITING TANJUNG BUKIS, LAHAD DATU!

2010-02-21T21:45:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

After arriving from Kuching, I headed to Sandakan. After two days we went to Lahad Datu. We directly visited a cape which I named it Tanjung Bukis (open cape), its vicinity is widely open towards the sea that resembles the glaring sky and sparkling sea water into a beautiful horizon. This cape is known to the people here as Tanjung Alangga (Cape of Ant). People here are Tausug. They are very kind and generous.

Yaz in action taking pictures of the vicinity of Tanjung Bukis, Lahad Datu. He is more than a professional Photographer. He loves views that embraces natural setting.

Yaz and Bining had expressed his enthusiasm to see this cape. This is adjacent to the Kampung Silam in Lahad Datu. It could be reached around 5 minutes from Kampung Silam. It is along the Darvel Bay where many sea urchins could be seen at sea bottom from the sea surface. The sea water is of white-crystalline that could satisfy our longings to the sea – for swimming..

We were served of diyaral iklug and sardines in our lunch, bangbang mamun (cake) for dessert in long table outside Langgal or small mosque. Of course the common drink was soft drinks – the soda. We were invited to other house to drink more. This has been the culture of the Tausug inherited from their forefathers for being kind and generous – generally it is the entire culture of human for being kind and generous.

When I saw the Istah Kulapu (fish) after we disembark the boat, I thought “I should have been eating this delicious fish in a fried cook or tiyula’”. Yaz took a picture of it, so much I. We took the picture of the fish with someone holding it for a kind of display..

He was so enthusiastic showing us the fish – but never offered us to get one. It cost 30RM a kilogram. Could it be sounds expensive? Yes, it is a special fish. I was hoping that I could have eaten one!

The vicinity of village at Tanjung Bukis. A typical wooden boat is the main mode of transportation of the villagers.

When we started to move to the town, the tire of our small car got pierced. Bining, Utu’ Abdulhadi and Apa' Satia did fixed it immediately.

I find Lahad Datu as a haven of kindness and generosity. There many fruit stands in the streets, much in the central market. The fruit stands are near the central mosque. Buahan (lanzones), Duyan, (durian), Duku, Nangka (jackfruit), Orange and Cempedak (a family of jackfruit) are colouring the vicinity of the town. A Tausug family gave us to taste the Duyan and Buahan – for free! Thank you for being so generous!

Vendors are majority Tausug or known here as Orang Suluk from different ethnicities, Bajau, Jama Mapun and others. Others are Indian, Bugis, Bisaya, Melayu, Chinese and Jawa. In our first visit with the Asreesulu or Asreemoro (the composer and singer of a Tausug song “Indah”), we found that Orang Jawa and Orang Bugis are famous here of their delicious Bakso.

“Waduh Mbak enak sekali bakso nya ya (Oh Mbak your Bakso is very delicious)!”, as we said to the kind lady who served us the Bakso. Sabaw-sabaw thing is Yaz’s favourite foodstuff. “Maghurut da kuman” to describe his love to sabaw-sabaw.

Langgal or small mosque where we were served delicious food.

Boat from/to Tanjung Bukis, chartered for free. Bining is saluting the sun or sighting the horizon.

Fisherman showing his fish with enthusiasm. Love to eat this fish!

So much for this description about Lahad Datu and the people around, it is also known home to Wali Allahu that we had known as Tuan Muda or Tuan Guru Hadji Ghulam Hassan Al-Bikangi. The mosque where he was doing his religious activities and teaching still exist until to this day, it is found in the hill side of the town – adjacent to the Police Station. The mosque called as Masjid Awal Tuan Guru Hadji Muda or Early Mosque of Tuan Gur Hadji Muda.

Muslims are open to do their prayers in this mosque. I don’t know for the tourists of different faiths. Give a try, maybe tourists of different religions are allowed to visit. I assumed there are religious tolerance and no religious discriminations here, although some restrictions may present.

Lahad Datu according to Yaz in his blog, www.alltausug.blogspot.com, it could have been derived from the Sama-Tausug word which mean the “Place of the Tausug Datu”. Lahat became Lahad that would mean “place”. The other meaning of Lahad is a space in the grave of a Muslim buried within that is covered by piling boards.

Lahad Datu is a two-hour drive from Sandakan City. It could be personal car and shuttle bus that cost only 25RM. Lahad Datu is profoundly related to the history of the Tausug and the Sultanate of Sulu. Please do visit for your own understanding!

Photos: Neldy Jolo

EXPLORING BORNEO!

2010-02-08T16:47:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

I have nothing to post recently. I decided to post something that could remind me to remember the route to explore Borneo of Brunie, Borneo of Malaysia and Borneo of Indonesia. After our wanders to explore Borneo of Malaysia, specifically North Borneo of now known as Sabah,we separated our ways. North Borneo still in a leased but sanctioned by UN as part of Malaysia state started in 1963. It was Sultanate of Sulu who leased North Borneo represented by Sulu Sultan Jamalul Ahlam to Baron Overbeck and Alfred Dent Company in 1878.

Bus Express from Miri - Kuching, Sarawak, Borneo, Malaysia

Vicinity of Kampunbg Ayer, Brunie Darussalam

Cat Monument to commemorate Kuching as City on 1 August 1988

Another Cat Monument

Sarawak State Assembly Hall (Dewan Undangan Negeri) along Rejang River, the largest river in Malaysia

I headed to Kota Kinabalu at night from Lahad Datu at around 9pm, they extended their stays at Lahad Datu and then proceded to Sandakan. We visited Kunak, a small town and a symbol of of still ancient town. I arrived Kota Kinabalu early morning then headed to Menumbok, the best way to reach Labuan by speed boat that cost 15RM. To enter Brunie only coast 35Rm around 1 hour in 45 munites. From the Muara Ferry Terminal reaching Bandar Seri Begawan about 45minutes by taking Shuttle bas that cost 2 Ringgit Brunie or 7RM.

This was my second visit to Brunie and I was overwhelmed by the magnificient beauty of the Sultan Omar Shaifuddin Mosque located at the heart of Bandar Seri Begawan, adjacent to the knwn water village called Kampung Ayer. Kampung Ayer is similar to the ancient Jolo town, that was historically known as Suba' Bawang and was being called Madi Mahat (Maddy Mahat) the traveller's great place during that time, around 11th century.

I proceded to Miri the day after paying 18 Ringgit Brunie. These routes are the best way to explore whole Borneo. Looking at its forested side help people to protect the beautiful enviroment. The way to reach Kuching, Sarawak, Miri is the starting point, it is only cost 80RM. Before reaching Kuching by bas, it will take the way to reach Bintulu, Sibu.

To pontianak from Kuching will cost around 65RM, unfortunately I was not able to visit. It is only from 6-8 hours travel. The only place near to Indonesia I got visited was Serikin, the haven of cheap products that are sold by Indonesians, Serikin is the boundary between Sarawak, Malaysia and Indonesia.

Kuching as fondly called Cat City by the locals and foreign tourists and travellers made the government to erect the Cat Monument around the city. Kuching was derived from the Malay word Kucing or Cat but having its name, perhaps it was mistaken to be Cochin or "Port" in ancient Indian name.

There is also a theory by naming it from the Mata Kucing or Cat Eye's Fruit. There are many affordable inns and hotels around greenhills street for backpackers. Not to forget the Kek Lapis or the Lapis Cake.

Hope to give more stories soon. Have to look at some notes to put details. In the evening of Feb 8, I took Air Asia flight in a cheap cost. Thank you to Abang Samad for the guidance. Talk to you later. Yaz, you should try to look for time to explore Borneo soon. Have to thank you for your effort in booking the ticket. Hope to have you on travel soon.

Photos: Neldy Jolo

KAPE ZAMBO Y BUSY BEE: HIVE OF ARTISTS AND PHILANTHROPIES

2009-12-15T01:40:00.000-08:00

Neldy Jolo

It is very common for human to wander to any handsome place that satisfy their fancy and happiness in life. I am one of them – a human too. I like to do urban adventure – considers Zamboanga City as one. The lights in the City Hall are overwhelming.

Zamboanga City is a common melting pot of different people from different islands of the Sulu Archipelago and the Peninsula as well as from countries of the 7 continents of the world. The city was known as the “City of Flowers” from the Tausug word Jambangan but it is now known the “Asia’s Latin City” that famously brought into being due to the broken Spanish dialect – the Chavacano aside from widely spoken ancient Bahasa Sug.

The people belong to various faiths, ethnicities, nationalities, faces, ages and those coming from the diverse interest in life flock here to find common ground that is happiness and peace. One of these people is artists and philanthropies.

One of the hives here I like to hang my tedious mood is in the KAPE ZAMBO: Y BUSY BEE where many people like “busy bee” enjoying their moments. It is like I was throwing my boredom into the bin of satisfaction. It was in 2006 I first entered this hive.

I was invited by Rameeta (Rameer Tawasil), a genuine Tausug Painter – he was had his gig here. As have been nick as the “reunion and acoustic venue” many local performing acoustic artist having their gigs here.

The ambience was fascinating – adding that the owner is a painter, kind and generous – gorgeous lady of arts in her own craft of unique genre – Ms. Bambut F. Montano. I was warmly welcome, seems to have met her before. Rameeta said Kape Zambo is one of his favourite corners in town – a place where people are welcome treated like in their own house.

After about three years of not having visited this hive and it is now the 9^th year of its existence– I am here again. This hive is common but unusual – it is the unusualness of what people are looking for.

The much vibes I missed here is now relieved, especially when I tasted one of their specialties, the Basilan Brewed Coffee – in an affordable price. Tausug coffee aficionado could visit here if they missed the scrumptious coffee in Jolo Island, Sulu. I still have to taste their Arroz Caldo and Ubud Fresh Lumpia.

The hive is found at Mayor Jaldon Street, Canelar (Fronting Metro Bank) and can be contacted at (062)-9924052/9227894 and email: kapezambo@yahoo.com for any catering services and deliveries, especially for pasalubong – the Fresh Homemade Peanuts, Cookies and the known Basilan Brewed Powder Coffee. It is open 7 days a week, every Monday to Sunday from 7:30pm-12am. Guests from different countries could go via Sabah, Malaysia and Manila, Philippines. Take flights direct from Manila to Zamboanga City and from Sandakan, Sabah, Malaysia via ferry, sometimes flights.

Photo: Neldy Jolo.

SULU FIRST MOSQUE: A GREAT HISTORICAL TOURISTS SPOT

2009-07-30T22:09:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo
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It has been many weeks ago I wasn’t able to tell something about Sulu wonders. I wasn’t having a great time to guide you for the past few weeks. Please accept my apology. When I browse the photo album I spotted the picture of the first Mosque in Sulu, so I prepare to guide you to visit here. I remember when we visited this mosque in 2003. It was a privilege to have visited the mosque and shrine.

Remaining old Pillars inside the Mosque and the Mosque at http://colloidfarl.blogspot.com

Surely the tourists will have a great time to see the enchanting beauty of this place. The original old mosque structure is within the new built mosque that is seen today. There are four remaining old pillars inside. The most interesting here, it was said that measurement of the square length of the mosque was based from the two hands of the Sheikh. The Sheikh did he was just stretching out his hands to measure its length wide.

The burial ground of Sheikh Muslim Missionary lies just beside this mosque. Other tomb of Sheik Al-Makhdum is in the Island of Sibutu beside of also one of the oldest mosques in Sulu. One friend from Bongao had it to say according to his research that there is even early mosque that was built here in 1315. 65 years before the mosque in Tubig Indangan was built. This is the oldest Islamic landmark as a national shrine in recognition to the contribution of Islam in the development of culture and civilization in the country, Sulu and Southeast Asia.

It was believed that at the height of Muslim defense against American colonial government, Muslim leaders met with General Leonard Wood at the mosque wherein historical talks and agreements were forged. Gen. Leonard Wood was the one who order to "Kill or Capture the Six Hundred" Sulus in Bud Dahu, Sulu.

The mosque is located in the town of Tubig Indangan, Island of Simunul, Tawi-Tawi, Sulu Archipelago. The island is the home of the Sama ethnic of Sulu. The Sama ethnic are lovely and peaceful people. This island is also known as the den of beautiful charming dames or ladies. Their beauties are blending of Sama ethnic Sulu and Arabs.

Tubig Indangan, Simunul is about 30 minutes trip from Bongao City by wooden boat. There are many available boats in the port area for private hire -that is for an affordable charge. It is near the Bongao Central Market. The regular trip to the Simunul Island is once a day only. Tourists could reach this island via Malaysia and the Philippines. Please see the oldest post of the way to arrive Sulu.

The mosque was name Sheikh Karim Al-Makhdum, in honor to the Muslim Missionary master when this was built in 1380. Al-Makhdum is a group Muslim missionary that was landed to Sulu and being called Makhdumin – the group of blessed Muslim Masters.

SULU: THE ISLAND COUNTRY OF SEA

2009-06-16T02:24:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo

Best Beach...

Sulu is known as the Island country of Southeast Asia. The white powder-like sands are exactly overwhelming and much better than other beaches in the Southeast Asia as I see. It is comparable to Sipadan Island and Mabul Island beaches as well as Boracay beach and Sulu Sunset sugar beach resort at Sipalay in the Philippines.

http://www.pbase.com/van9338/jolobasilantawitawi

The name Igasan was derived from the name of the community leader around this area during the reign of the Sultanate of Sulu era.I remember in 2006, in a boat bound to Jolo from Bongao, there was a group of travelers and mountaineers who wanted to visit Igasan beach. I got befriend to one of them name Mikki then told me that they wanted to drop by Jolo and visit the beach.

They were actually looking for someone who was endorsed to them by their Tausug friend in Manila, Philippines. We walk through the streets in Jolo. I took them to round the town reaching as far as Capitol Hill, the administrative center of Sulu and the Jolo Airport.

Igasan beach is one of the popular beaches in Sulu. It is also known as Quezon beach in honor to the Philippine president Manuel L. Quezon when he swam here during his visit to the country around 1930’s. That is how Tausug honoring visitor when reaching their country.

Igasan beach is about 25 minutes from the town of Jolo in Sulu. It is found in Patikul [Patik All] town. People can hire a motorcab or Jeepney for a minimal and very affordable charge, especially to the backpackers. Igasan beach is far from being commercialized. People can simply relax here to experience the whispering breeze and the magnificent crystalline water.

If I remember right, one of them name Gio Sabio shouted, “Wonderful!” when he touches the sand and took pictures of the views here. And one of them, Angie Tan said “this is among the best beaches I had visited, I will tell my friends to come here, and hopefully I could come back”. A guest of Gio Sabio’s photo galleries commented that “this was the beach I was looking for!!!”

Way to reach...

All of the way from any countries for now to reach Sulu should pass by Philippines or Sabah, state of Malaysia.

From the Philippines...

Do book your ticket at any airline agencies or take any available sea route from different places in the Philippines, like Cebu, Palawan, Iloilo, Bohol and Manila. Upon reaching Zamboanga City you can easily get the schedule of the trips to Sulu. You can go by air or by sea. In sea route from Zamboanga City takes 6 hours to reach port of Jolo when you take the regular boat.

If you want to reach Jolo early, you can either take the fast craft in a day for a few hours, that is fastest than the regular trip at night. Boat for Siasi Island and Bongao Island as well as Sitangkai Island is also available in a regular trip.

From Sabah State of Malaysia...

Do book ticket from any agencies to reach Sandakan from any places in Malaysia, like Kuala Lumpur, Johor and Sarawak. There is no passenger trip by sea route for Sandakan. From Sandakan purchase a ticket bound for Zamboanga City. The trip will take around 15 hours to reach Zamboanga City port, that is twice a week, every Monday and Thursday at around 4 PM.

There is also a trip of fast craft that is direct to Sulu if you wish. The fast craft will pass by Bongao to Jolo. You can take any motor cab for a minimal charge here to bring you to the affordable hotels and inns in the country. You do island hopping, mountain climbing and many more. The trip is also Monday and Thursday but early morning, around 7 AM. The port is in Karamunting, Leila Road, Sandakan.

RECOMMENDED TO VISIT!

2009-06-13T01:23:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo

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Sulu has been part of international turmoil. Thus needs help to bring back the peak of calmness. When I was in Jolo, I told myself that I am one of the luckiest men in the world. Sulu is bitterly known as the “Island of No Return” and “No Man's Island”.

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Many people wanted to visit Sulu, especially Jolo because of the reputation as centre for international pearl trading it has for centuries. I am proud that somehow Jolo still lingered in the mind of the international community.

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Asreesulu or Asreemoro contacted me then that he wanted to visit Sulu for sometimes because his ancestor was originated from here. I told him that “I can guarantee your safety” when will visit Jolo soon. I was actually afraid of what I told him because I cannot be sure of my words to him that “he is safe to visit Jolo.”

Still my trust and confidence to let him visit Jolo was surrendered to God. I knew that Tausug people are not that bad as ever known to the people who hate them. Tausug people are just wanted to be given justice but some are not doing good things and let their people be part of the criticism of others as “uncivilized people”.

I am strongly recommending Jolo, Sulu and other islands around it to be visited, not to give damn of the kidnapping here for I believe it is not the real natives here who facilitated this business. The Tausug people are just victim of the situation of the political, social, economical and cultural chaos. The Tausug people became the collateral of the Sulu people elite to serve the interest to own Sulu as their business assets.

What Tausug people are waiting for now is the shining armour that could serve as the buffer of evil that strikes Sulu for so long. Bring back the glorified memories of Sulu from the cradle of peaceful end to the present conflict and dilemma..As I heard from a Tausug elder, he said “as long as the Bud Tumantangis still standing erect, no evil traits that can destroy and drown Sulu.” Thus Sulu’s memory of the past shall become the glory of the future!

Please visit http://theislandsofpearls.blogspot.com/2009/06/glory-of-memory.html

SULU MOST BRIEF HISTORY

2009-06-12T22:38:00.000-07:00

Neldy Jolo

Sulu is basically known as archipelagic and volcanic part of the Southeast Asian Nations. In the present era when we say Sulu, it is a province after illegally annexed to Philippines when Spanish ceded Philippines to American through Treaty of Paris on December 10, 1899.

Bud tumantangis, highest peak in Sulu Archipelago

Sulu actually is a nation and a state since 1390 when following the anniversary of the Sulu Public Administration that is done every September of the year. Some historians claim Sulu officially became nation-state started in 1401 or 1405.

Sulu was internationally recognized as a nation-state and never subjugated and conquered for 321 years (1578-1899) by the Spanish, 47 years by the Americans (1899-1946), 4 years by the Japanese (1942-1945) and 62 years by Filipinos (Protégé of King Philip II of Spain) (1946-2008).

Sulu is called Sug or Lupa’ Sug by its populace, translated into ‘Land of the sea current’ from the word ‘sug’ means current in the Bahasa Sug or Sinug (Tausug Language). According to the Tausug mystic knowledge there was a mystical piece of land called Lupa’ Sug which is usually can be seen only by pious men if he is fortunate.

Sayyeda Rukaya Alfad enumerated in her article “Sulu, the Land of Mysticism” published in Hangadhulat, MSU-Sulu Student Publication in 2005 that says “among us in the Far East [Sulu], there are four hidden things, such as; the Hidden Knowledge, the Hidden Wealth, the Hidden City and the Hidden Power [Islamic Sultanate Government]” therefore this is the Sulu Hidden Kingdom or the Sulu Stolen Kingdom. Only God Knows.

Calliter wrote in his article “The Journey of a Tausug” that Tausug are generally refers to Sug as the Way. If he says ‘makusug in sug‘, he actually meant ‘it is hard to cross the way.’ If he says ‘dih masangsang in sug‘, he is actually saying ‘the flow, the force or the way of the current is unstoppable‘. Tausugs call themselves ‘People of the Way or Ahlus Suluk.’ We redefined the Way further as the Living Current where all life flows, and Lupah Sug as “The Land of the Living Current.”

Indeed, Sulu archipelago is “the tip of the east” and “the hidden treasure in the east”. Tagalog phrase “saan man sulok ng mundo” (wherever in the tip of the world) might be influenced by word Suluk. People who practiced Suluk usually did it at the corner and the tip of the Mosque. Tagalog word “Sulok” could mean as “tip” or “corner”.

Sulu is famous for its pearls and Pearl Farm in Marunggas Island as well its white sand beaches like Igasan Beach (Quezon Beach) and Bangas Beach (Ramos Beach), coral reefs and exotic fruits that suggests to tag Sulu as “Land of Exotic Fruits”. These possessions might be portrayal of the idea to the character of Sulu archipelago as a “Beautiful Woman” or “Queen” of world’s archipelagos.

Excerpt from the manuscript: Sulu Archipelago: The Islands of Pearls and the Wisdom behind it written by Neldy Jolo and edited by Yazz Abdurajim